Blog Archives

How Much Do We Have To Change Ourselves In Order To Make A Change In The World?

Embrace the foreign - being Kars' first registered foreign driver, I am 001...just 6 foreigners away from being a world renowned international Bond of mystery.

Embrace the foreign – being Kars’ first registered foreign driver, I am 001…just 6 foreigners away from being a world renowned international Bond of mystery.


Yesterday, I applied to become a Turkish citizen.

And it didn’t work. Even after five years of living in Turkey, I still don’t quite qualify. Though many of my neighbors speak about me like they do about yogurt, coffee, tea, and native Americans, swearing that my origins must somehow be Turkish… on paper, I am not. (more…)

Tasting Ramazan and other Holy Honey Matters (The Mellified Man & Mumijo)

Camili Muslim worshipers and honey bees have a few things in common, they both love bright colors, flora, and elaborate geometry.

A famous Turkish honey saying, “He who handles honey licks his fingers,” must not have considered he-who-practices-Ramazan, the Muslim holiday of fasting. As we open hives and begin harvesting honey this month, my beekeeper friends look at me miserably, their fingers all sticking without any licking! (more…)

Sleeping with Cheese: a Snapshot of Bogatepe’s Legendary Gruyere

Cows pattern the hillside. From a distance they appear like a strings of ants.

It’s nine p.m., and even with the full moon I can see thousands of stars. I am at 2,300 meters (about 7,500 feet) and I am walking into a dark long shed. In the darkness, I smell hot humid boiled milk. I keep walking into a deep throaty smell of fermentation. Finally I end in a smell that is cold, aged, salty. The lights shoot on and giant warm orbs of gruyere cheese glow from the shelves. All around me men suit up and start pulling the cheeses from the shelves, salting, spinning, wiping, drying… and to think just five minutes ago I thought I was headed to bed! (more…)


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